The last day, and we made it count. Two historic climbs. The Ghisallo climb, the same climb that is featured every year in Il Lombardia. And the Muro di Sormano, a climb made famous from it’s use in Il Lombardia routes in the early 60s.

We started as all smart folks do, climbing the Ghisallo route immediately from the hotel. We all rolled a little easier, to let the climb act as more of a warm up, but also taking in the roads that pros crush in the course of a race. We made it to the chapel and met up with Patricia, a former racer herself who had worn the white jersey at the Giro Rosa. She was going to be our follow car to the Muro. After collecting everyone and again enjoying the energy of the chapel, we set off for Sormano and eventually The Muro.

The Muro alone isn’t enough, there is the climb to Sormano first. This prelude climb needs to be managed well, otherwise you go into The Muro crushed before you need to truly crush yourself. Fabio had told me to only go as hard as necessary before reaching Sormano, which is exactly what we did. Taking the climb easy, we were able to appreciate the scenery and views a bit more. Through Sormano, a beautiful town and eventually to the start of The Muro.

The Muro di Sormano is actually a cycling and walking path. No cars are allowed on it. It‘s an asphalt path that has been decorated to honor the racers and climbers who raced on it when it was introduced to Il Lombardia in the 60s. There are quotes painted on it from Ercole Baldini and Gino Bartali, who ruled the climb during those early years. The elevation, meter by meter, is also painted on. In the lower section of the climb it‘s fainter, but as you go up it only gets bolder and bolder. Also, there a series of semi-circles that act as look out points for those who want to stop and see where various peaks are. It is only 1mi long, but it averages 17%, with a max grade of 25%. It is a beast.

There is a gate at the base to stop cars from going up. This poses a challenge as you are already climbing a bit when you reach it and the path around is awkward. I dismounted and remounted on the other side. You must pick and choose your remount points, as there are very few places to actually restart by yourself. Once going, I was committed. Earlier in this trip someone asked me what goes through my head when I‘m climbing; I said it‘s one of two things, 1) just telling myself to breathe and keep pedaling, or 2) the guitar riff from AC/DC‘s “Back in Black“. Today it was definitely a bit of both. I had started climbing and I wanted to see how far I could get without stopping, obviously with the goal of making it all the way to the top. From the start it was a battle. Trying to find the right position, and fighting my bike as little as possible while still making progress and staying up right. I was maybe 40m in, when I heard Fabio from the gate area shouting I was looking good. Usually I don‘t respond well to encouragement like that, as I know I do not look good, I look like an amateur rider trying to take on one of the toughest climbs that regularly breaks pros. But today I was taking any and all positive reinforcement, because I knew once things went negative so would my riding. We climbed higher and higher, eventually into the 950-1000m range and that was the hardest and slowest I have ever gone. My heart rate was through the roof, and my breathing was not cooperating, so once I made it to 1000m and there was a flat drainage path across the road I had to put my foot down. I just had to breathe for a few seconds. I let myself breathe and soak in where I was, and I was ready to continue on. Fabio set me up, and then I was going again. Just as slow, if not slower than before, but even more determined. Up and up and up. Fabio just ahead of me most of the time. “Strong Emily!“ he‘d shout back to me, and I‘d laugh/huff each time, but feel more invigorated to finish this thing. Coming to the last 50m, my head only had AC/DC in it. I finally felt like Strong Emily. I was finishing this thing strong. Another gate greeted us at the top, so again a dismount, and then a Coke and a macchiato from the well-placed bar at the top of the climb.

After the climb it was time to descend, and descend a lot. I hadn’t brought a vest with me, so I resorted to an old school trick, stuffing a crumpled up and re-flattened newspaper in my jersey. It worked great! We descended some amazing farm country and then switchbacks, down to Nesso. From Nesso it was a speed train back to Bellagio, and one last time up the climb to the hotel. After getting to the hotel we celebrated with some delicious pasta and home brewed beer from Fabio (molto bene!).

To see our adventure: https://www.strava.com/activities/722116106

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